Jane
Milan Fashion Week 2025 was a transition and turbulence season marked by creative shake-ups, brand crises, and bold artistic statements. Fendi honored its centennial with a tribute to its storied heritage, while Bottega Veneta bid farewell to Matthieu Blazy in a poignant final collection. Throughout the week, designers explored the contrast between quiet luxury and extravagant expression, reflecting the shifting dynamics of high fashion. Beyond aesthetics, the event highlighted ongoing conversations about inclusivity, diversity, and the evolving definition of luxury.
As the industry changes, Milan Fashion Week showcases new collections and a mirror of broader transformations. Some brands lean into tradition for stability, while others push creative boundaries with bold reinventions. This season highlighted the intersection of cultural narratives, economic pressures, and creative shifts, shaping the future of fashion. With sustainability and inclusivity at the forefront, the industry faces a pivotal moment that demands a balance between artistic vision and social responsibility.
Milan Fashion Week: A Season of Transition and Turmoil
Jil Sander’s Creative Duo Bids Farewell
The week was significantly highlighted by yet another major shake-up in the fashion industry when Jil Sander, a prominent and influential player in this competitive field, announced the departure of their creative directors, Lucie and Luke Meier. After eight remarkable years at the helm, leading the brand with their distinctive vision and innovative designs, their farewell show for the esteemed German label occurred on Wednesday, coinciding with the second day of Milan Fashion Week.
This particular event was noteworthy not only for the exit of the talented Meier duo, who have played a crucial role in shaping the brand’s identity but also for the impending challenges that the brand will have to navigate in the wake of these significant changes. The departure raises many questions about the brand’s future direction, creative vision, and how it will adapt to continue thriving in an ever-evolving fashion landscape.
Fendi’s Centennial Celebration: A Tribute to Legacy
Fendi took center stage on the same day, celebrating its 100th anniversary with a deeply personal presentation. This show, the first since Kim Jones’s departure in October, marked a pivotal moment for the Roman fashion house. With no permanent creative head, Silvia Venturini Fendi, granddaughter of the brand’s founders, temporarily led the direction. Rather than diving into the archives, she drew inspiration from personal memories, reinterpreting Fendi’s essence for the modern era.
Nearly 90 looks paid homage to the house’s craftsmanship, featuring ribbed deerskin jackets, reversible suede coats, and shimmering Op Art garments. Trompe-l’œil effects mimicked mink and fox fur using lambskin, while leather patchwork and quilted satin underscored the ateliers’ exceptional skill. The color palette reflected Rome at dusk, with hues ranging from laurel green and graphite to cinnamon and terracotta, punctuated by bold bubblegum pink and scarlet. The collection earned a standing ovation, a testament to Fendi’s enduring influence.
Gucci in Crisis: Struggles Behind the Runway
In stark contrast to Fendi’s triumph, Gucci found itself navigating instability following the dismissal of Sabato De Sarno after just two years. The fashion house, owned by French luxury group Kering, faced a steep 23% drop in profits in 2024, largely attributed to inconsistent creative direction and internal restructuring. The runway show on Wednesday leaned heavily into brand heritage, drawing on the double-G logo, influences from the 1970s and 1990s, and signature leatherwork. However, tension lingered, with Gucci employees greeting the audience at the end—a rare move that underscored the brand’s internal struggles.
The situation worsened as De Sarno’s departure triggered a mass exodus, with over 150 employees relocating from Rome to Milan, fueling instability. Reports suggested that the remaining staff faced rising living costs without salary adjustments, leading to resignations and growing uncertainty. Union representative Anita Ferri warned that further upheaval was imminent, as incoming creative leadership would likely bring a new team, exacerbating the turmoil.
Major Appointments and Strategic Changes
Several other fashion houses also experienced notable shifts in their leadership structures recently. Matthieu Blazy, who had been steering Bottega Veneta, decided to leave for a prominent role at Chanel, paving the way for Louise Trotter to step in as his successor. Instead of hurrying into a debut collection, Bottega Veneta chose a more measured approach by opting to forgo a traditional runway show this season, which allows for a much smoother transition during this pivotal time.
This calculated decision reflects the brand’s intent to maintain its integrity and focus rather than rushing into the spotlight. Trotter’s inaugural collection for the house is scheduled to debut in September 2025, which signifies a careful and deliberate effort to reshape the creative identity of Bottega Veneta in line with her vision. This strategic timeframe highlights the importance of thoughtful planning and indicates a commitment to ensuring that every aspect of the brand’s evolution is executed with precision and care.
Provocative Statements and Bold Fashion Moments
Milan Fashion Week was not without its audacious moments. Diesel’s opening show, featuring a mountain of condoms as its backdrop, set the tone for a rebellious and provocative week. Creative director Glenn Martens sent models down the runway in low-rise jeans, sheer devoré fabrics, and bold skin-baring designs. Roberto Cavalli and Dolce & Gabbana embraced maximalism with patchwork leather, crystal embellishments, and lingerie-inspired pieces. Dolce & Gabbana’s glamazon aesthetic featured feathered parkas, embroidered slips, and metal-cupped bras, making for a visually striking spectacle.
A Shift Toward Quiet Luxury
While some fashion brands embraced a sense of extravagance and boldness in their designs, others chose to lean into a style characterized by understated elegance and sophistication. Max Mara’s latest collection, titled “The Camelocracy,” stood out by championing the concept of quiet luxury, drawing inspiration from the refined aesthetics of the Enlightenment era.
This collection featured plush cashmere coats that offered warmth and elegance, ankle-length skirts that flowed gracefully with every movement, and floor-sweeping teddy coats that exuded an effortless sophistication that appealed to the modern sensibility. In a similar vein, Prada’s collection, crafted by the talented duo Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada, placed a strong emphasis on practical garments that were infused with a refined twist—most notably, wedding dresses that were ingeniously transformed into stylish daywear, blurring the lines between formal and casual attire.
At the same time, the collection included structured shirts and high-waisted trousers, each piece designed to exude an everyday chic that could easily transition from work to social gatherings, making them versatile staples in any wardrobe.
Bottega Veneta’s Final Flourish Under Matthieu Blazy
One of the standout collections that captivated attention during the event was Matthieu Blazy’s extraordinary swan song for the esteemed and prestigious brand Bottega Veneta. This notable collection served as his third and final installment in the “Italia” series, and it received significant acclaim throughout the fashion week, being widely hailed as one of the finest presentations of the entire week. Blazy’s work effortlessly masterfully combined imaginative and innovative designs with practical wearability, effectively appealing to a broad and diverse audience ranging from fashion enthusiasts to everyday consumers.
The collection featured oversized, tailored masculine suits that exuded confidence and power, reflecting a contemporary take on classic menswear. Alongside these robust pieces were intricately woven dresses that highlighted exceptional craftsmanship and showcased meticulous attention to detail and artistry. This balance between bold, powerful silhouettes and delicate, feminine designs created a dialogue that enriched the overall aesthetic. Furthermore, the inclusion of soft, luxurious dressing gowns added an element of comfort and elegance, inviting wearers to explore fashion as a transformative tool for personal expression and individuality.
Throughout the collection, Blazy incorporated subtle nods to Italy’s rich artistic heritage, which paid tribute to the country’s storied past and celebrated its ongoing and vital influence within the global fashion arena. These elements of Italian artistry were seamlessly woven into the collection’s fabric, creating a narrative that resonated deeply with the audience. In this meticulously curated manner, Matthieu Blazy successfully left a lasting imprint on the Bottega Veneta brand, ensuring that his unique vision would resonate with audiences and fashion aficionados alike, thereby cementing his legacy within the brand’s history and the broader fashion industry.
Milan Fashion Week Embracing Change and Creativity
Milan Fashion Week 2025 was a season of creative brilliance and industry turbulence. While designers showcased breathtaking craftsmanship and evolving aesthetics, the backdrop was uncertain, with leadership changes, financial struggles, and shifting consumer preferences shaping the future of several major houses. Jil Sander and Gucci faced significant transitions, while Fendi and Bottega Veneta delivered poignant collections that honored legacy and artistic innovation. Meanwhile, the conversation around inclusivity remained pressing as the industry grappled with long-standing representation challenges.
Despite these uncertainties, Milan reaffirmed its position as a global fashion capital where heritage and reinvention coexist—from Fendi’s century-spanning tribute to Diesel’s rebellious spectacle, the week balanced the timeless with the provocative. Even in the face of change, Milan remains a stage where the past informs the future, and designers continue to push boundaries while preserving the craftsmanship that defines Italian fashion. As the industry moves forward, this season’s collections signal not just a moment of transition but a redefinition of what luxury fashion will look like in the years to come.
